Since my monstera is pretty mature and very healthy, I have several options when it comes to selecting cuttings to propagate. .

Planting a Monstera Cutting in Soil

When your Monstera cutting finally grows its own roots, it’s time to transition it to soil.Please note this article describes transitioning cuttings from non-soil propagation methods into soil after they are rooted.When these small feeder roots are at least 3 inches (8 cm) long, it is time to plant your Monstera cutting in soil!For example, a small Monstera like an adansonii could be planted (alone or in combination with other cuttings) when its root volume would fit in a 2 inch (5 cm) pot.For an albo variegated Monstera deliciosa, I wait until the roots can fill a 4.5 inch (11 cm) pot.Planting an albo Monstera cutting when it has more roots lessens the risk of leaf loss due to transplant shock.If it is stiff, dark colored, and has a lot of bark flaking off, it older and will take much longer to start growing new roots.Overall, expect at least six weeks from the first fuzzy white root to the time your Monstera cutting is ready for planting.If you are propagating in water, try to use a short container so that the root tip will touch the bottom quickly.Move your Monstera out of its propagation medium and into soil once it has enough roots to survive the transition.If your Monstera has too many roots grown in its propagation medium, you will not harm the plant.Even if my cuttings grow a little bit slower in the meantime, I want to make they survive the switch.For expensive albo Monstera cuttings, or any plant you want to be extra careful with, try switching to perlite or moss before soil.If you don’t want to plant your Monstera in soil, you can keep it in water or use another alternate medium.Rinse the roots and keep the container clean to avoid mold or algae growth.Similar to hydroponics, this method requires occasional cleaning and consistent fertilization/pH adjustment.This will make planting your Monstera cutting easier, because the roots will be free to take the form of their new pot.Find the tip of each root and work backwards, detangling it a little bit at a time to avoid breakage.Start with the easiest sections and go back to difficult ones later when the root ball has loosened.Sometimes, based on the shape of your roots and your cutting, it might not be possible for the plant to stand up without burying some of the stem.Water until drops come out of the drainage holes in the bottom of your pot, and all the soil is wet.Keep a close eye on your new plant, and do not let the soil dry out all the way before watering a second time.This is especially important if you are planting a Monstera cutting straight from water to soil.If you are using a clear pot, look for new root growth in the soil to confirm that your plant is healthy and adapting well to its new home.Click to view MonsteraGuide’s best Amazon products to care for your Monstera plants.We use these exact products on our own Monstera (Deliciosa, Adansonii, and Albo Variegata) plants, and they receive a lot of praise on Instagram! .

Propagating Monstera Deliciosa

Today, we’ll cover taking a cutting from your own parent plant, and how to get it started growing roots and new leaves.For advice about buying a cutting to propagate, look out for our variegated Monstera purchasing guide, coming soon.Check out our Monstera care product recommendations that you can purchase from Amazon.Understanding the parts of a Monstera Deliciosa plant will help you achieve success when propagating.Each petiole (the long green stalk that holds the leaf) grows out of a node.Right above each node is an axillary bud, the dormant shoot of a new stem, waiting to be awakened by a cut.Until it grows roots, the plant is missing a vital piece of the photosynthesis equation: water.Without an external source of water, your plant cannot feed itself for long, and will eventually turn yellow.In order for your Monstera Deliciosa to survive propagation, you need to focus on growing roots.Note that the transfer from propagating medium to soil can cause some roots to die!I have heard some people use a rule of thumb like, “expect 1/3 of the roots to die in transition.”.The exact number depends on how much you disturb the roots while planting, and how similar you keep the moisture level.This can happen before the cutting is established in it’s final medium if you keep it rooting for a long time.If your cutting starts to produce new growth, it is getting enough water to be a happy, thriving plant again!You can see this growth point as a pointy bump forming on the petiole of the newest leaf.You can see this growth point as a pointy bump forming on the petiole of the newest leaf.Propagating a Monstera Deliciosa without a leaf is possible, it just takes longer with no leaves to perform photosynthesis.A cutting with more leaves can produce more energy once it is rooted and regains access to water.This speeds up the process of growing the first new leaf, or activating the axillary bud, if applicable.For a top cutting, the newest node is typically immature and may not have an aerial root yet.In that case, the leaves will turn yellow and die off one by one until a balance is reached.They will make the unrooted phase much shorter, reducing risk to your plant.If the aerial root is a thin pale string with the outer casing falling off, it has rotted and should be cut off as well.Without a node and axillary bud, you can root a Monstera leaf but never produce a new plant.There are a ton of ways to successful propagate your Monstera Deliciosa into a new plant!When choosing a method of propagating your Monstera Deliciosa, consider the things your cutting needs to grow roots and avoid rot:.Until your cutting grows roots, you don’t need to add nutrients to the water you use to moisten your propagation medium, because it can’t absorb them.Air layering is the best method of propagating because it allows your cutting to grow roots while still attached to the parent plant.This removes the unrooted phase of propagation, giving your cutting the best possible chance to succeed.A fish tank air stone can be added to increase water oxygen levels.Pros: Can use a clear container to see roots form and check cutting for rot.We use this hanging propagation station to decorate our home and clear up counter space near our bright kitchen window.Moist moss holds a lot of water, which is great for maintaining humidity around roots while still allowing airflow.This method can yield great results, but is difficult to execute correctly.Perlite has very similar benefits to water, with the addition of greater airflow.Perlite is absorbent and porous, so it will wick moisture up to areas of the container that are not underwater.Keep the container filled with a small reservoir of water below the level of the stem, and cover the top to hold in humidify around the roots.You can use any chunky, inorganic material for this method, like pumice or LECA, if you don’t have perlite.Perlite is my preference because it is so lightweight; it is easy to pull out the cutting to check on it without disturbing it too much.Make sure you pick a course perlite (#3 or bigger to minimize dust) without fertilizer.In the future, we will be creating a detailed how-to guide for every single one of these methods, so stay tuned!Identify the location of the axillary bud, above the node, and make sure it is included in the cutting.Cut the stem cleanly, without causing any crushing damage, to keep the tissue healthy.Once you chop your cutting, you may notice the exposed tissue turning a reddish brown color within a few minutes.Don’t worry; this is just it reacting to air, the same way your blood turns red outside your body.Powder is best for dry mediums (like soil and not water) because it will wash off in a liquid.If there is any extra in the dipping container, I mix it into the water that I add to the propagating medium.As it is exposed to air, the end of the cutting will naturally callous, creating a barrier to protect the plant from rot and infection.If you ever cut your Monstera Deliciosa for propagation, have a broken stem, or just break off the new growth point on a developing leaf, don’t worry!Monsteras have a trait called apical dominance, which just means that one stem has one growth point active at a time.When the dominant growth point is broken or removed, the Monstera will naturally activate a dormant axillary bud.A new growth point will break through the side of the stem and eventually make a new leaf.If your Monstera parent plant or mid cutting has not started growing a new bud, you can try to help it along.Typically, you don’t need to go to the extra effort since Monstera are so easy to propagate via cuttings.The seeds of a variegated Monstera plant will produce green offspring unless one happens to spontaneously mutate, but the odds are almost zero.This is the main reason variegated Monstera are rare; they can only be produced by using a cutting of the parent plant.Check out our Monstera care product recommendations that you can purchase from Amazon. .

What do you do with aerial roots on Monstera?

Aerial roots weren’t something I used to devote a lot of time thinking about, but I’ve become increasingly intrigued by them over the past couple of years.TL;DR: chop off aerial roots if you want – it won’t harm your plant.There are also rumours that if you want your plant to develop mature leaves, it’ll need it’s aerial roots.I have another article here that’s more quick and dirty BUT it does have pictures of some aerial roots that are creepy af so stay on this one if you don’t like that!Underground roots, broadly speaking, take up moisture and nutrition from the soil to help your plant grow and photosynthesise efficiently.They also grow astonishingly quickly, and have a swell habit of attaching to things that you don’t want them to (like your walls or floor) but flatly refusing to attach to the moss pole you bought specially for it.The argument against aerial roots is that they take energy away from the plant that could go into making leaves HOWEVER some plants won’t grow their leaves past a certain size unless they have a decent aerial root system.The purpose of aerial roots on monstera is to help it climb up towards the light in the rainforest – a bit of a non-issue in the average house, you’ll agree.You probably won’t harm your plant if you cut off the aerial roots – the biggest threat to it is you accidentally stabbing it with your shears, or giving it a disease through non-sanitised equipment.Make sure you sterilise your equipment (I just run my scissors under boiling water) and a bit of hydrogen peroxide rubbed on the wound won’t hurt.My Thai constellation has grown one aerial root plus a little nub, but my Peru, currently growing a very long vine for reasons best know to himself, has some:.A lot of aroids do this thing where they grow a load of aerial roots at once, like little, nubs, and they look pretty creepy.I currently don’t have a picture of a really grim one, but my satin pothos is displaying a pretty typical set of aerial roots on a fairly new node.In my experience, unless you give the plant something to cling to, pothos/Scindapsus aerial roots won’t grow any longer than that.There’s always one outlier that perhaps did produce a pup from a detached aerial root, but it’s NOT the norm.Once you’ve removed an aerial root from its mother, it’s highly unlikely to do anything other than wither and dry out or rot.I don’t want to claim that Monstera are hard to root (they’re really not), but I REALLY don’t want you to spend upwards of $100 on a variegated Monstera leaf that’s unlikely to root (unless you have the money to spare, in which case, go ahead.If you snip off a length of aerial root and submerge it in water, it’ll probably just rot.I’m going to update this section because a ‘hack’ recently went viral about putting Monstera aerial roots in water.I personally don’t put Monstera aerial roots in water since it’s likely that they’ll just rot.If you put your Monstera’s aerial roots in water, they might grow, but they’re not particularly likely to produce a pup.Having said that some people have had success growing Monstera really quickly above fish tanks, with the aerial roots trailing in the water.You could always try putting an air stone in your water vessel if you fancy trying submerging your aerial root.Again, for every person that claimed they grew a whole new plant from sticking an aerial root in the soil are ten others that said they just rotted.They don’t seem to wither and fall off like leaves, so I assume the plant is still sending out energy to aerial roots even though they look dead.It doesn’t help that aerial roots naturally develop a brown, barky texture after a while, so they look quite dead even when they’re not.Don’t worry about accidentally snapping off aerial roots – bad stuff happens to plants in the wild all the time, and they’re well-equipped to deal with it.The one in the picture actually had aerial roots before the spider mites incident, but I felt that I really had to address the leaflessness.Most of the time, the succulent/aerial root issue can be solved by moving your succulent to a brighter spot or getting some grow lights.In my case, lack of light wasn’t the issue, because this particular jade plant lives in a south-facing window.I also underwatered ponytail palm, as evidenced in my house plant tour video.I 100% that thing had rotted, so I watered it as a last ditch attempt to save it (the trunk was soft) and when I was filming I realised it had firmed up.So the underwatering is an issue, but I have high humidity in my home, which also reeeeally doesn’t help.Monstera are DESPERATE to climb, which is why their aerial roots remain pliable for such a long time after they grow them.Because its aerial roots are so long, it’ll find something to climb and isn’t that fussy what that is.So to get your plant to grow aerial roots, you need to make it worth its while, which means giving it something to climb.Instead of using traditional moss or coir poles, go and watch this video from Plant Life in the Tropics.If you want your plant to attach to a moss pole, you’ll have to keep it moist CONSTANTLY.I’ve seen hacks using water bottles and elastic bands, but that seems like an accident waiting to happen.Even if you manage to keep the moss pole moist enough for the aerial roots to attach, it may very well lose its grip at the first hint of dryness.Like Caitlin advises in the video, I’m going to stick the vine to the plank with sellotape (we love a cheap solution) and wait for it to latch one.If you live in the UK, a LOT of garden centres have them – they’re super common, but you can also check out Etsy. .

Monsteras & Aerial Roots: What Are They & What Should You Do

Though they are completely normal and don’t harm your plant, you may still have many questions surrounding these odd roots on your Monstera deliciosa.Natives of Mexico and the northern regions of South America, the Monstera deliciosa makes its habitat in moist tropical rainforests.In its natural habitat, these woody epiphytic vines can reach up to 60 feet tall and produce a delicious edible fruit that takes over a year to ripen.Also known as a Swiss Cheese Plant, the wild Monstera Deliciosa grows by attaching its aerial roots to nearby trees, which act as a sort of trellis that allows the plant to grow into the upper reaches of the rainforest canopy.Unlike other plants that do this, the Monstera doesn’t damage or kill the host tree; it strictly uses it as a way to reach sunlight.Because of this, many tropical plants, including the Monstera deliciosa, have developed unique methods of gathering enough sunlight.The seedlings of the Monstera Deliciosa exhibit a unique trait called negative phototropism, or skototropism.This allows the young seedling to seek out the trunk of a tree that it can then attach to and grow up in the wild.Though seedlings don’t need much light, as Monsteras grow older, they climb to the top of the canopy in search of bright, indirect sunlight.However, in the rainforest, the holes in the Monstera leaves are believed to serve a survival purpose rather than just being aesthetically pleasing.They begin as small knobs that grow off of the Monstera’s stem and, over time, can reach several feet in length.The purpose that these roots serve varies, but they seem to contribute to supporting the Monstera as it continues to grow into the canopy.There’s no real reason to do this, though, and the science on it is spotty as it seems that these two types of roots are distinctly different from one another on a cellular level.This is important in their natural habitats, where Monsteras have to compete with much taller tropical trees and plants for enough sunlight.Without the ability to use aerial roots to grow up trees, Monsteras would not be able to gather sufficient sunlight in the rainforest.Underground roots help keep the plant from falling over or becoming uprooted and absorb water and nutrients from the soil.When they first begin to form, the young aerial roots may look like small knobs or growths on the sides of your Monsteras stems.When propagating, aerial roots are usually a good indication that a node would make a strong choice for a cutting.If the aerial roots aren’t bothering you but you want to help your Monstera along, giving it something to grab onto is a great option.Once put into place, it’s as simple as finding the thickest and most mature stems and tying them gently to the pole to encourage the plant’s aerial roots to attach.Some Monstera owners also thread the most-established aerial roots through the newly installed moss pole.You can do this, but it isn’t required and probably won’t make much of a difference in how quickly your Monstera takes to its new support system.They are an indication that your Monstera is probably ready to start climbing, and your plant won’t suffer if you leave it to its own devices.It is important to note that not providing your Monstera with support can possibly hinder its overall growth and result in heavier stems snapping over time.Trimming back aerial roots is no different than any other type of pruning, so if you’re experienced in plant care, this should be pretty easy.Try not to cut too close, though, as damaging the stem can weaken it and allow bacteria, fungi, and pests an easy inlet to attack your plant.Trimming back a Monstera Deliciosa’s aerial roots should be done after the growing season, which is generally in early spring and summer.If you decide to prune a Monstera’s aerial roots, remember that these appendages have a purpose in your plant’s growth.If you’ve got more to learn, grab a copy of our book today and get your Monstera Deliciosa back on track. .

Monstera aerial roots

If your beloved Monstera deliciosa houseplant suddenly starts sprouting dead-looking brown growths, it can be easy to worry.It uses taller trees and other supports in order to make its way towards the higher and more well-lit areas of the forest.Without some way to support the plant while it reaches for the skies, it would obviously just fall off the tree or rock it grows on.Aerial roots are really not uncommon in plants and Monstera deliciosa isn’t the only houseplant that grows them.Succulents might grow aerial roots as well, especially if they’re neglected or tilting too much to one side, but these are not meant for climbing.In the wild, a mature Monstera deliciosa can end up relying entirely on its aerial roots.It can start out green, but unlike normal roots, will eventually become covered in a brown, woody layer.They can grow pretty long and stick out in all directions as your plant looks for support.If lots of aerial roots are appearing, it might be helpful to affix your Monstera deliciosa to a moss pole (also called a plant totem).It won’t hurt your Monstera, as the aerial roots they tend to grow in the home appear to mainly have a support function.Some do argue that if you cut off your Monstera’s aerial roots, it won’t grow past a certain leaf size.I haven’t found any scientific studies backing this up, though, but we all know that in the houseplant hobby a lot is based on observation by hobbyists.With dirty tools, you run a small risk of introducing fungus or bacterial infections.But remember: Monstera deliciosa is simply a type of plant that grows aerial roots.If there’s an aerial root growing out of the node on your Monstera cutting, that’s absolutely fine.The cutting can sprout roots from this spot and thereby provide you with a whole new Monster deliciosa houseplant.However, placing them in water 24/7 probably won’t do much more than make them rot and possibly endanger your plant.If you have any more questions about Monstera aerial roots or if you want to share your own experiences with these amazing tropical houseplants, don’t hesitate to leave a comment below!Growth of aerial roots with an extensive elongation zone by the example of a hemiepiphyte Monstera deliciosa. .

How to Propagate Monstera Adansonii

Monstera Adansonii is known as a fast-growing vining plant that is most commonly found in Central and South America.This plant is capable of growing as vines from hanging baskets and can climb walls.Monstera Adansonii can be propagated in sphagnum moss, perlite, water, or directly in the soil.In order to propagate a Monstera Adansonii you take a stem cutting with at least one node and 1-3 leaves if possible.You can propagate your Monstera Adansonii in soil by taking a cutting with a few leaves present on it.Remove some of the leaves from the bottom of the cutting so that a few inches of the stem are left empty.In order to propagate Monstera Adansonii, you will also have to take a ¼ inch cutting that has a few leaves present on it.Make sure to provide your newly propagated Monstera Adansonii with bright, indirect sunlight.Once the water evaporates, the surrounding humidity around your Monstera Adansonii will start to increase.You can create this well-draining soil by using orchid bark, charcoal, peat moss, and perlite.If you live in a small house or apartment, then the mess that the soil creates is extremely noticeable.Letting your propagated Monstera Adansonii grow in water also reduces the risk of pests invading your plant.Damp soil is the biggest attraction for these pests, and most of them attack the roots, which makes the damage irreversible.Proceed to place your plant into the larger container, and keep changing the water every time it gets murky.The combination of organic matter and water will cause the buildup of algae on the roots and stems of your plant.Since Monstera Adansonii is not a naturally growing water plant, it can not thrive in these conditions.Root formation can be delayed as a result of lack of nutrients or because you did not take a proper cutting.Marcel is also the founder of Iseli International Commerce, a sole proprietorship company that publishes a variety of websites and online magazines. .

How to Diagnose and Treat Root Rot in Monsteras

Dark, damp conditions like wet soil is the perfect environment for fungus and bacterial to grow, which can cause your roots to rot.Then slowly add water to the soil until it starts to drain out the bottom.Make sure your monstera gets plenty of bright, indirect sunlight so the plant can use water efficiently and so the soil can dry out as it should.Think about it, if you wanted to hang a wet shirt to dry, you probably wouldn’t do it in a cold, dark room, right?You’ll notice dark brown to black spots on the lower leaves because they’re the first to absorb the excess water and any fungus or bacterial that has infected the roots.Carefully remove your monstera from the pot (you might need a friend to help you) and rinse as much of the soil off the roots as you can.Then repot the plant into fresh soil in a clean pot with good drainage.Since root rot is usually a fungal problem, you’ll want to remove the affected leaves so the infection doesn’t spread.Then throw the leaves in the trash and take it out immediately so the pathogens don’t spread to your other plants!After repotting and pruning, place your monstera back in bright, indirect sunlight so it can adjust and heal.(As an added bonus, it cleans and adds shine to your monstera’s leaves!).Your plant stands the best chance of survival if you prevent root rot and catch problems early, so take measures to prevent this condition and watch your monstera closely for signs of infection. .

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