But by growing them in the house we put them at risk of getting into trouble because this is not their native environment.Repot the plant in a larger container and place it in a location with 8-10 hours of indirect sunlight.The more delicate plants will immediately drop their leaves, but succulents, for example, will not show any signs of underwatering.This tropical plant can tolerate a short drought, but vigorous growth is out of the question.When the soil dries out the monstera will stop its growth and if it is not watered, the leaves may turn yellow and shrivel up.Soak all of the roots and soil in the pot with the excess water coming out through the drainage holes.If the plant has been growing in the same pot for several years, the roots may become crowded and begin to wrap themselves up in a ball.Gradually the number of roots will increase and they will start to push the soil out of the pot.With a lack of water and fertilizer, the monstera will stop growing and may even become sick.Choose a pot twice as big as the previous one and make sure that the container has enough drainage holes.The first thing that will happen is that the plant will use its internal energy reserves for the process of photosynthesis.In the long absence of light, the monstera will stop growing and its life begins to fade away.Over time, the soil is depleted and the plant begins to experience a shortage of necessary substances.The plant can even fall ill with a disease called chlorosis, the symptoms of which are yellowing of the leaves with green veins.The first thing you have to do is to make sure that the soil is not very compact and contains some compost or other organic matter.Make sure that the product contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium.Fertilize the monstera at least 2-3 times per season, starting in early spring.Most plants hibernate to rest and gain strength for the new growing season.In addition, in late autumn and winter, there is usually very little sunlight and the plant has to reduce the photosynthesis intensity to avoid suffering from the lack of light.So don’t be surprised if your monstera stops growing sometime between October and November and stays like that throughout the winter months.To improve the overwintering of the monstera you will need to remove any dead plant parts (if any).Also, as I mentioned earlier, don’t fertilize the monstera in the winter because this could wake it up.If you see anything that looks like a disease, remove the affected part of the plant immediately and spray it with fungicide.But if the number of pests is high, the monstera will not only stop growing but may even die.Fortunately, most pests are easy to spot, both by their physical presence and by the traces they leave behind.They have an oblong body, their color is light when they are young but in maturity, they become dark or almost black.Look at the underside of the leaf and if you see white clusters, take a magnifying glass and take a good look.Afterward, you can just wait, during this time the monstera may lose a few leaves and this is normal. .
How to Have Holes in Monstera Deliciosa Leaves
As a flowering plant, Monstera Deliciosa is a member of the Arum family.Monstera Deliciosa is native to tropical regions like South Panama and Southern Mexico forests.Using a well-balanced fertilizer or pruning older leaves will also encourage your Monstera Deliciosa to form holes.Due to its stylish leaves, Monstera Deliciosa is a popular choice.A healthy Monstera Deliciosa undergoes several stages, from being a seed or cutting to a mature plant.However, in most cases, you will buy a young Monstera Deliciosa that already has a couple of leaves and will develop more and more fenestrations as it matures.A healthy Monstera Deliciosa has holes in almost all of its leaves by the time it turns four years old.When it is outdoor, a mature Monstera’s spadix can produce edible fruit in spring and summer.In a year, a Monstera Deliciosa plant ideally grows by 1.5 feet (0.45 meters).If you want to ornate your home and make it refreshing for guests, Monstera Deliciosa is a great feature plant adding a jungle look to your interior.The perforated leaves give the Monstera plant a signature look, so the holes add to its visual appeal.He says that holey leaves allow the sunlight beams to reach the bottom part of the plant.It makes sense because Monstera Deliciosa grows in a crowd of other plants in the forests.Expecting a few months old Monstera Deliciosa to have holey leaves would not be any good because it is too young.I’ve seen that these plants start growing fenestrated leaves from the age of two to three years.Whether you planted your Monstera Deliciosa in a garden or a pot, water helps it acquire nutrients from the soil.As a result, they are incapable of generating the energy that splitting leaves and developing holes requires.Plant fertilizers typically include beneficial substances like Potassium, Nitrogen, and Phosphorus.So, your Monstera Deliciosa may be experiencing low growth because it lacks a good fertilizer.By understanding the reasons and adjusting your plant care methods, you can encourage the Monstera Deliciosa to develop holes and split leaves.The best hack I discovered for my plant’s light problems is placing the pot on an east-facing window.You can find out by checking whether your watering, the right level of light, soil, and fertilizer are on point and confirming that your Monstera Deliciosa is not too immature to develop fenestrations.Your Monstera Deliciosa relies on water for absorbing minerals that help it grow. .
Propagating Monstera Deliciosa
Today, we’ll cover taking a cutting from your own parent plant, and how to get it started growing roots and new leaves.For advice about buying a cutting to propagate, look out for our variegated Monstera purchasing guide, coming soon.Check out our Monstera care product recommendations that you can purchase from Amazon.Understanding the parts of a Monstera Deliciosa plant will help you achieve success when propagating.Each petiole (the long green stalk that holds the leaf) grows out of a node.Right above each node is an axillary bud, the dormant shoot of a new stem, waiting to be awakened by a cut.Until it grows roots, the plant is missing a vital piece of the photosynthesis equation: water.Without an external source of water, your plant cannot feed itself for long, and will eventually turn yellow.In order for your Monstera Deliciosa to survive propagation, you need to focus on growing roots.Note that the transfer from propagating medium to soil can cause some roots to die!I have heard some people use a rule of thumb like, “expect 1/3 of the roots to die in transition.”.The exact number depends on how much you disturb the roots while planting, and how similar you keep the moisture level.This can happen before the cutting is established in it’s final medium if you keep it rooting for a long time.If your cutting starts to produce new growth, it is getting enough water to be a happy, thriving plant again!You can see this growth point as a pointy bump forming on the petiole of the newest leaf.You can see this growth point as a pointy bump forming on the petiole of the newest leaf.Propagating a Monstera Deliciosa without a leaf is possible, it just takes longer with no leaves to perform photosynthesis.A cutting with more leaves can produce more energy once it is rooted and regains access to water.This speeds up the process of growing the first new leaf, or activating the axillary bud, if applicable.For a top cutting, the newest node is typically immature and may not have an aerial root yet.In that case, the leaves will turn yellow and die off one by one until a balance is reached.They will make the unrooted phase much shorter, reducing risk to your plant.If the aerial root is a thin pale string with the outer casing falling off, it has rotted and should be cut off as well.Without a node and axillary bud, you can root a Monstera leaf but never produce a new plant.There are a ton of ways to successful propagate your Monstera Deliciosa into a new plant!When choosing a method of propagating your Monstera Deliciosa, consider the things your cutting needs to grow roots and avoid rot:.Until your cutting grows roots, you don’t need to add nutrients to the water you use to moisten your propagation medium, because it can’t absorb them.Air layering is the best method of propagating because it allows your cutting to grow roots while still attached to the parent plant.This removes the unrooted phase of propagation, giving your cutting the best possible chance to succeed.A fish tank air stone can be added to increase water oxygen levels.Pros: Can use a clear container to see roots form and check cutting for rot.We use this hanging propagation station to decorate our home and clear up counter space near our bright kitchen window.Moist moss holds a lot of water, which is great for maintaining humidity around roots while still allowing airflow.This method can yield great results, but is difficult to execute correctly.Perlite has very similar benefits to water, with the addition of greater airflow.Perlite is absorbent and porous, so it will wick moisture up to areas of the container that are not underwater.Keep the container filled with a small reservoir of water below the level of the stem, and cover the top to hold in humidify around the roots.You can use any chunky, inorganic material for this method, like pumice or LECA, if you don’t have perlite.Perlite is my preference because it is so lightweight; it is easy to pull out the cutting to check on it without disturbing it too much.Make sure you pick a course perlite (#3 or bigger to minimize dust) without fertilizer.In the future, we will be creating a detailed how-to guide for every single one of these methods, so stay tuned!Identify the location of the axillary bud, above the node, and make sure it is included in the cutting.Cut the stem cleanly, without causing any crushing damage, to keep the tissue healthy.Once you chop your cutting, you may notice the exposed tissue turning a reddish brown color within a few minutes.Don’t worry; this is just it reacting to air, the same way your blood turns red outside your body.Powder is best for dry mediums (like soil and not water) because it will wash off in a liquid.If there is any extra in the dipping container, I mix it into the water that I add to the propagating medium.As it is exposed to air, the end of the cutting will naturally callous, creating a barrier to protect the plant from rot and infection.If you ever cut your Monstera Deliciosa for propagation, have a broken stem, or just break off the new growth point on a developing leaf, don’t worry!Monsteras have a trait called apical dominance, which just means that one stem has one growth point active at a time.When the dominant growth point is broken or removed, the Monstera will naturally activate a dormant axillary bud.A new growth point will break through the side of the stem and eventually make a new leaf.If your Monstera parent plant or mid cutting has not started growing a new bud, you can try to help it along.Typically, you don’t need to go to the extra effort since Monstera are so easy to propagate via cuttings.The seeds of a variegated Monstera plant will produce green offspring unless one happens to spontaneously mutate, but the odds are almost zero.This is the main reason variegated Monstera are rare; they can only be produced by using a cutting of the parent plant.Check out our Monstera care product recommendations that you can purchase from Amazon. .
What to Do if Your Monstera Leaves Won't Split
The best part about monstera plants (and the reason why they’re so popular on the houseplant market right now) is those giant, beautiful leaves with their characteristic holes!With good light, the right amount of water, and a little fertilizer, your monstera should grow and eventually develop those beautiful holes and splits on its own when it’s 2-3 years old.But if you have a young plant that you want to watch grow and mature, you’ll need good lighting.Just be very careful with west-facing windows because they tend to get a lot of direct, hot afternoon light, which can scorch the leaves.While light is by far the most important factor in leaf-splitting, water and nutrients (aka fertilizer) also play a role.In addition to making sure your monstera has an abundance of bright, indirect light, make sure you’re giving it the correct amount of water and fertilizing regularly, especially during the spring and summer when monsteras are most likely to experience growth spurts.With lots of sunlight, plenty of water, and adequate nutrients, you’ll have a beautiful monstera! .
Good to Know: How to Propagate a Monstera (and other care tips
Since my monstera is pretty mature and very healthy, I have several options when it comes to selecting cuttings to propagate. .
How to Keep a Monstera Deliciosa Growing Upright
A Monstera won’t be damaged because it’s not growing upright, but for aesthetic and space reasons, most people prefer that they be as straight and tall as possible.If you have ever seen a Monstera growing in the wild, it will be immediately apparent why they tend to fall over when grown in pots.The combination of the large size and a climbing habit is what causes indoor Monsteras to lose their balance, unless they have some support.But as it gets larger, there is nothing for it to hold on to, and the weight of the leaves and stems grow towards the floor in search of support.It’s not unusual for Monstera owners to find that their plant has started to climb up nearby walls or bookshelves.Removing it can damage your paint job, so be careful to keep your plant away from contact with things it shouldn’t climb.Luckily, there are a few choices that all work great for keeping a Monstera upright: moss poles/coco coir pole, trellis, and garden stakes.These poles are wrapped in sphagnum moss or coco coir and are specifically designed to support aroids (including Monsteras) and other plants that like to climb.The moss or coco coir also supports your Monstera’s health because it contains micronutrients and moisture, which can be conveyed to the plant through its anchor roots.Using a moss or coco coir pole promotes the growth of large, mature leaves.Many people like the look of coco coir and moss poles over other types of support since they look natural and blend in with the plant.For that reason, I usually prefer to buy mine online instead of dealing with the hassle of DIY.Most people like to add the support when they are repotting, since it can be difficult to insert it into a pot that’s already full of roots.If your plant has plenty of room and you don’t need to repot yet, check with your trowel to find where you can put in the support without damaging any roots.That way, the Monstera has more room to grow, and you can more easily add more supports on the other side if needed in the future.As new stems and leaves come in, you might need to attach that new growth to your support to make sure your Monstera is growing the way you want.In that case, you should move the whole thing (support and all) into the new pot, and add another stake on the other side if needed.Finally, if your Monstera is unbalanced to one side, you could rotate the root ball when you repot it so that it is more upright.Providing your Monstera with a way to grow upright will help keep it happier by mimicking its natural environment.If you’ve got more to learn, grab a copy of our book today and get your Monstera Deliciosa back on track. .
Variegated Monstera Care
The main difference is the white portion of the variegated Monstera leaves cannot absorb light, so the plant needs to work twice as hard to photosynthesize. .
What do you do with aerial roots on Monstera?
Aerial roots weren’t something I used to devote a lot of time thinking about, but I’ve become increasingly intrigued by them over the past couple of years.TL;DR: chop off aerial roots if you want – it won’t harm your plant.There are also rumours that if you want your plant to develop mature leaves, it’ll need it’s aerial roots.I have another article here that’s more quick and dirty BUT it does have pictures of some aerial roots that are creepy af so stay on this one if you don’t like that!Underground roots, broadly speaking, take up moisture and nutrition from the soil to help your plant grow and photosynthesise efficiently.They also grow astonishingly quickly, and have a swell habit of attaching to things that you don’t want them to (like your walls or floor) but flatly refusing to attach to the moss pole you bought specially for it.The argument against aerial roots is that they take energy away from the plant that could go into making leaves HOWEVER some plants won’t grow their leaves past a certain size unless they have a decent aerial root system.The purpose of aerial roots on monstera is to help it climb up towards the light in the rainforest – a bit of a non-issue in the average house, you’ll agree.You probably won’t harm your plant if you cut off the aerial roots – the biggest threat to it is you accidentally stabbing it with your shears, or giving it a disease through non-sanitised equipment.Make sure you sterilise your equipment (I just run my scissors under boiling water) and a bit of hydrogen peroxide rubbed on the wound won’t hurt.My Thai constellation has grown one aerial root plus a little nub, but my Peru, currently growing a very long vine for reasons best know to himself, has some:.A lot of aroids do this thing where they grow a load of aerial roots at once, like little, nubs, and they look pretty creepy.I currently don’t have a picture of a really grim one, but my satin pothos is displaying a pretty typical set of aerial roots on a fairly new node.In my experience, unless you give the plant something to cling to, pothos/Scindapsus aerial roots won’t grow any longer than that.Once you’ve removed an aerial root from its mother, it’s highly unlikely to do anything other than wither and dry out or rot.I don’t want to claim that Monstera are hard to root (they’re really not), but I REALLY don’t want you to spend upwards of $100 on a variegated Monstera leaf that’s unlikely to root (unless you have the money to spare, in which case, go ahead.If you snip off a length of aerial root and submerge it in water, it’ll probably just rot.I’m going to update this section because a ‘hack’ recently went viral about putting Monstera aerial roots in water.I personally don’t put Monstera aerial roots in water since it’s likely that they’ll just rot.If you put your Monstera’s aerial roots in water, they might grow, but they’re not particularly likely to produce a pup.Having said that some people have had success growing Monstera really quickly above fish tanks, with the aerial roots trailing in the water.It makes sense since the biggest threat to your aerial root is rot.You could always try putting an air stone in your water vessel if you fancy trying submerging your aerial root.Again, for every person that claimed they grew a whole new plant from sticking an aerial root in the soil are ten others that said they just rotted.They don’t seem to wither and fall off like leaves, so I assume the plant is still sending out energy to aerial roots even though they look dead.It doesn’t help that aerial roots naturally develop a brown, barky texture after a while, so they look quite dead even when they’re not.Don’t worry about accidentally snapping off aerial roots – bad stuff happens to plants in the wild all the time, and they’re well-equipped to deal with it.The one in the picture actually had aerial roots before the spider mites incident, but I felt that I really had to address the leaflessness.Most of the time, the succulent/aerial root issue can be solved by moving your succulent to a brighter spot or getting some grow lights.In my case, lack of light wasn’t the issue, because this particular jade plant lives in a south-facing window.I also underwatered ponytail palm, as evidenced in my house plant tour video.I 100% that thing had rotted, so I watered it as a last ditch attempt to save it (the trunk was soft) and when I was filming I realised it had firmed up.So the underwatering is an issue, but I have high humidity in my home, which also reeeeally doesn’t help.Monstera are DESPERATE to climb, which is why their aerial roots remain pliable for such a long time after they grow them.Because its aerial roots are so long, it’ll find something to climb and isn’t that fussy what that is.So to get your plant to grow aerial roots, you need to make it worth its while, which means giving it something to climb.Instead of using traditional moss or coir poles, go and watch this video from Plant Life in the Tropics.If you want your plant to attach to a moss pole, you’ll have to keep it moist CONSTANTLY.I’ve seen hacks using water bottles and elastic bands, but that seems like an accident waiting to happen.Even if you manage to keep the moss pole moist enough for the aerial roots to attach, it may very well lose its grip at the first hint of dryness.Like Caitlin advises in the video, I’m going to stick the vine to the plank with sellotape (we love a cheap solution) and wait for it to latch one.If you live in the UK, a LOT of garden centres have them – they’re super common, but you can also check out Etsy. .
Swiss Cheese Plant: Indoor Care & Growing Guide
Common Name Swiss cheese plant, Swiss cheese vine, five holes plant Botanical Name Monstera adansonii Family Araceae Plant Type Perennial Mature Size 10–13 ft. tall (outdoors), 3–8 ft.
tall (indoors), 1–3 ft. wide Sun Exposure Partial Soil Type Moist, well-drained Soil pH Acidic, neutral Bloom Time Spring (does not bloom indoors) Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 10–12, USA Native Area Central America, South America Toxicity Toxic to pets.The Swiss cheese plant is notoriously easy to care for, and it loves to climb.The plant has aerial roots growing downward from the stem, which brace against the ground or any available support.Providing regular water and food will be your main care task with this plant.Because of the Swiss cheese plant's tropical origin, it grows best in bright, indirect light.It's used to thriving under the cover of large trees in the jungle, and the foliage can easily burn if it's exposed to too much direct sun.Swiss cheese plants grow best in peat-based potting mix, which will help to trap moisture in the soil without causing it to become waterlogged.Before watering your Swiss cheese plant, stick your finger into the soil about an inch deep.The Swiss cheese plant is a climber, so it might need to be pruned if it begins to outgrow your space.The easiest method to propagate a Swiss cheese plant is by using stem cuttings.Plant the cutting in moistened soilless potting mix in a small container with drainage holes.Put plastic wrap over the tray to trap in moisture, and place it in a warm spot with bright, indirect light.Plan to repot every two years in a slightly larger container with fresh potting mix.The Swiss cheese plant might have to contend with a variety of common houseplant pests, including mealybugs, spider mites, scale, and whitefly.Luckily, these pests are rarely fatal and can be treated with a nontoxic insecticide or neem oil.Additionally, keep an eye out for common diseases, such as root rot, rust, powdery mildew, and blight.When grown in the conditions it likes, the Swiss cheese plant typically doesn't have any serious problems. .
How to Care for and Grow Your Monstera Deliciosa — Plant Care
Learn the basics of Monstera plant care including light requirements, watering frequency, and how to troubleshoot common problems you may encounter along the way.Fertilize your Monstera 1-2 times per month in the spring and summer with indoor plant food, or foliar feed year round. .