Prized for its burgundy red leaves and colored undersides that perform a dazzling display as they cascade over the pot, they are a truly stunning find.In this complete guide, I’ll be sharing the best philodendron red emerald care tips (why you shouldn’t be using potting soil as a growing medium!).The philodendron red emerald hails from the deep luscious rainforests of Colombia and Costa Rica.You’ll also find ‘escapees’ of this plant in Koolau Forest Reserve in Hawaii, regions of the Philippines, and Australia, though they were introduced by humans and not found natively.All we know is that it was documented in the world’s global biodiversity facility at some point, though the entry was never signed by the explorer or botanist.FYI, I’m not a fan of Miracle Grow’s soil – it killed off a lot of my plants and caused a fungus gnat infestation *cry*.Despite what many garden websites and plant blogs say, pure soil actually isn’t a great growing environment for your philodendron!This is because their growing medium is fast-draining and rainforest fogs and dewy mists increase humidity and evaporation levels, wicking away excess water relatively quickly.Once the soil dries it creates a "blanket effect" which traps moisture below and stops much needed oxygen from reaching the roots.2-3 months in low light and you’re likely to see some of that deep emerald green color fade to an off-lime or mild yellow.Having said that, don’t be afraid to put it somewhere it can receive 2-3 hours of cool morning sun, especially in the winter when light is lower naturally.The reason plant’s growth slows down in winter is because the temperature, light and humidity are at their lowest - usually much lower than their native environment.I highly recommend purchasing a good set of quality grow lights (I’ve linked the ones I use).A true warmth lover, the philodendron red emerald loves to grow in a location that keeps a stable temperature of between 70-80F or 21-29C, though it will cope with warmer and can tolerate cooler (60F or 16C).Not to mention, a higher humidity leads to wider, larger leaves and vastly thicker stems (petioles).Why Grouping Increases Humidity: Plants continually lose water from their leaves through a process known as transpiration.Myth Buster: Lining a tray with pebbles and regular mistings helps to increase humidity naturally.There are lots of options open to you on the market, but I love and swear by dyna grow (7-9-5 NPK formula), it’s a complete liquid fertilizer that contains all 16 essential nutrients your plant needs to not just survive, but thrive.It’s urea free and low in heavy nitrogen salts, which over time, alter the pH level of the soil and lead to root burn.In nature, plants receive a steady stream of nutrients from decaying matter over days – they don’t take one big gulp a month.I cut back both on waterings and feedings in autumn, and stop fertilizing completely in the winter months to prevent oversaturation during the more dormant part of their growth cycle.Alternatively, you can use another brand of liquid fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen (promotes foliage growth), dilute to the recommended strength, and feed once a month.Cut back during the autumn and stop during the winter months (unless of course, you can replicate optimal growing conditions all year round).Cheaper fertilizers tend to be loaded with heavy nitrogen salts which in large amounts can lead to death very quickly due to the rapid change in soil pH.In that case, I HIGHLY recommend Alaska fish emulsion – it’s packed with micronutrients and a good dose of nitrogen and does wonders for foliage growth.Based on botanical field notes, this plant may convert into a full epiphyte (grows up trees) if its connection to the ground is severed.The philodendron red emerald will never grow taller than 12 feet (3m) – this is its absolute max size.Interesting fact: Botanists in the 1800’s believed that the juvenile and mature form of philodendrons were entirely different plants!It wasn’t until the early 1900’s they realised that philodendrons in the wild are the same plant, they just completely dwarf their indoor counterparts.The philodendron red emerald is a fast grower when given the right growing conditions so it will need occasional pruning to keep it looking tidy and in shape.With a clean pair of pruning scissors, cut back damaged, diseased, leggy, or extremely long vines.Friendly Tip: If you’ve just bought your plant from a nursery or Etsy seller, it’s likely it needs repotting straight away.Nurseries typically resell their plants when they’ve reached max growing capacity in that container.Jumping straight from a small to large pot can lead to root rot if the mixture becomes too wet.Taking stem cuttings or air layering the nodes have the highest success rates for home growers and enthusiasts.Natural propagation includes a leaf or stem (petiole) with nodes breaking off, falling to the ground somewhere nearby, and taking root over a period of weeks or months after being doused with lots of rain.Once the roots are around 1 inch (3cm) long, you can move it to a slightly larger container with a normal richer potting mix and care for as usual.The air layering method works for mature, well-established philodendron red emeralds that are already creeping up a pole.Mealybugs, thrips, aphids, spider mites, and scale can all be removed with some diluted neem oil, an eco-friendly insecticide.The main culprits to watch out for are erwinia blight disease and pseudomonas leaf spot, both nasty bacterial infections that start when the roots have no oxygen and are left to rot in overly wet soil.The bacteria festers just below the soil level before causing wet, mushy lesions on stems and leaves.You can try to save your plant by changing the potting mix to include more fast draining elements, pruning infected and diseased leaves/stem right back, and treating with a diluted copper sulfate solution.Misting has been shown to cause all sorts of bacteria to develop if the water isn’t evaporated quickly.The philodendron Red Emerald is toxic to small children and pets, including cats and dogs as its leaves contain calcium oxalate crystals.If left in waterlogged soil, the roots are stuck in a constantly damp place with no air, which is the perfect environment for decomposition to start.You’ll typically see it in winter if you live in a region that gets very little light in the colder months e.g Northern Europe.How to Fix: Move to a brighter location or install some grow lights to keep that luscious deep emerald green intact.Philodendron green emeralds can have a slight tinge of red on new stems, though it’s fairly faint.This is likely erwinia blight disease or pseudomonas leaf spot, both nasty bacterial infections that need to be treated as soon as possible.How to Fix: Change the potting mix, check for rotten roots and treat the plant with liquid copper, a natural bactericide.Whilst it’s grown naturally and found abundantly in Colombia, it’s a rare and coveted find in the American and European commercial markets.Horticulturists and nursery growers can grow the philodendron red emerald by seed and tissue culture but they’re not beginner-friendly methods.Stem cuttings and air layering have the highest success rates amongst home growers and enthusiasts
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